By Gary Smith | December 27, 2007 - 10:28 am - Posted in Appliances, Garbage Disposal

Use a strong flow of cold water and keep it running at least 30 seconds after noise of grinding has stopped to flush all food particles through the drainline.

Always use cold water when operating the disposer to solidify fatty and greasy wastes so they will be chopped up and flushed down the drain.

Hot water will not hurt the disposer and you may safely run hot water from the sink through it. However, use cold water when you are operating the disposer.

If you wash dishes in a sink with a disposer, check to be sure all small objects are removed from the sudsy water before you drain the sink.

If you have a continuous-feed disposer, move silverware and other small items away from the edge of the sink counter to avoid accidentally knocking them in while it is running. Do put small bones through; they help to scour the sides of the grinding chamber.

Follow directions in the manual with your disposer as to what should not be put through the disposer. Do not grind large bones, or fibrous materials as corn husks unless manual tells you can. With fibrous foods (celery, chard, asparagus ends, etc.) put through only a small amount at a time with a full flow of water. If drain line is long and quite horizontal, fibrous foods or too much garbage at one time can clog the line.

Do not put uncooked fat off meat into disposer as it may clog. Do not pour liquid fats down line; solidify in empty tin can in refrigerator, and dispose in trash.

Run the disposer each time you put food waste in it. This is particularly advisable in the less expensive models which are more subject to corrosion from the acids formed by food waste left for a long time.

An unusual noise while disposer is operating may mean a foreign object. Turn off disposer immediately and retrieve the object.

With a continuous-feed model, use the cover as directed to protect yourself when grinding bones or fruit pits–small particles could possible be ejected by the force of the disposer action. Avoid leaning over the disposer if you are feeding waste into it while it is running.

Never put you hand inside the disposer while it is running.

All disposers have overload protectors to avoid damage to the motor. If the disposer should stall, turn off the disposer and the cold water. Retrieve the article causing the problem. Press the reset button on the disposer. If it won’t stay in, wait a few minutes and try again. If the disposer won’t start when the switch is turned on, check the house fuse.

This article was written by Anne Field, Extension Specialist, Emeritus with references from the Maytag Corporation.

By Gary Smith | - 10:15 am - Posted in Garbage Disposal

Over time, food particles may accumulate in the grind chamber and baffle. An odor from the disposer is usually a sign of grease and food buildup, caused by insufficient water flow during and after disposer use. To clean disposer:

  1. Turn off disposer and disconnect power supply.
  2. Reach through sink opening and clean underside of splash baffle and inside upper lip of grind chamber with scouring pad.
  3. Place stopper in sink opening and fill sink halfway with warm water.
  4. Mix a one pound box of baking soda with water. Turn disposer on and remove stopper from sink at same time to wash away loose particles.

Disposers may also be cleaned with Disposer Care®. This product is generally available in major home centers, hardware, and grocery stores.

For more information on Disposer Care®, contact Iron Out, Inc. at 1-800-654-0791 or www.ironout.com.

By Gary Smith | December 25, 2007 - 4:35 pm - Posted in Roofing

Roofs are expensive, and even the smallest leaks can cause major problems, so you want it to last. The best way to extend the life of your roof is to perform semi-annual inspections and dentify and address problems as they occur.Because of their location roofs get more abuse from the elements than other part of the house. What looked fine in the spring has spent the past few months being rain-soaked and sun-baked. Now that the weather is starting to cool down, go up there and take another look. Be sure to set your ladder solidly on stable ground (don’t use a stepladder to get to the roof). , apply sun-protection, and drink plenty of water, then get ready to clean, inspect, & repair.

Remove all debris that has collected on the roof, including around chimneys and other roof penetrations. Debris can collect and retain moisture, leading to the deterioration of your roofing materials.  

Trim branches and shrubs that are touching your home. They can provide a pathway for bugs and
rodents as well as excess moisture entering the house.

Remove dead branches that may fall on your home.

Now that things are cleaned up, inspect the roof for damaged, loose or blistered shingles. If bad shingles cover less than 20% of the roof, simply replace them, or have them replaced by a pro.

Examine flashing around chimneys, vents, valleys, skylights and roof edges. Flashing is the last defense against moisture intrusion at these vulnerable spots. The flashing should be free of damage, lie flat, and be surrounded by shingles that are also free of damage and laying flat. If flashing is damaged, replace it.

Remove any caulking and sealant that is weather-worn or cracked. Clean the area with a brush and apply new caulking.

Remove debris from gutters and downspouts. Haul up a hose or bucket of water and test the gutters. Make sure the downspouts direct water at least 5 feet away from your foundation walls.

Examine fascia and soffit boards, and the eaves. Areas of deterioration or flaking paint on eaves can indicate a problem with the gutters. Inspect and repair gutters around these areas. Sand and repaint the eaves as necessary.

If the eaves are soft or rotting they may allow rain into your attic or the tops of your walls! This moisture problem can become very serious very quickly, so be sure to replace damaged fascia and soffit boards! If you live in a hurricane-prone region, extend the fascia so it terminates below the underside of the soffit.

www.garynsmith.net SafeHome Inspections 601-454-5559

By Gary Smith | December 23, 2007 - 11:16 am - Posted in Home Safety

NFPA - National Fire Protection Association and CPSC - Consumer Product SafeTy Commission recommend the following heating safety tips:

  • Space heaters need space. Keep all things that can burn, such as paper, bedding or furniture, at least 3 feet away from heating equipment.
  • Turn portable heaters off when you go to bed or leave the room.
  • Plug power cords only into outlets with sufficient capacity and never into an extension cord.
  • Inspect for cracked, frayed or broken plugs or loose connections. Replace before using.
  • Have your chimney inspected each year and cleaned if necessary.
  • Use a sturdy fireplace screen.
  • Allow ashes to cool before disposing. Dispose of ashes in a metal container.
  • Install smoke alarms in every bedroom, outside each sleeping area and on every level of the home. For the best protection interconnect all smoke alarms throughout the home — when one sounds, they all sound. Test smoke alarms at least once a month.
  • Install and maintain a carbon monoxide alarm in a central location outside each sleeping area.
  • Never use an oven to heat your home.
  • For fuel assistance, contact the National Fuel Funds Network at 1-202-824-0660.

NFPA has introduced two new heating safety campaigns to help spread this lifesaving message this winter. Every fire department in the country recently received “Keeping Your Community Safe and Warm”, a toolkit of support materials to help them conduct successful heating-safety campaigns in their communities and NFPA worked with Scholastic to reach nearly 5 million families through schools around the country with take home materials and activities aimed at reducing the number of home heating fires.

For more information on either of these campaigns contact: public_affairs@nfpa.org